Off to Norway’s Countryside… the Bergenbahnen. 

I’ve seen a decent part of Norway coastline so far but missed out on the countryside… when I was still on FAIRWINDS there was a time we planned on sailing down to Bergen before crossing over back to Ireland. Bergen would have been my last Stopp and Espen recommend the Bergenbahnen to me as an more scenic alternative to get back to Oslo airport. Once this idea was in my head I collected more and more information… my father seams to know all of the stations this train runs through and made me even more to go this way. 

But the weather wasn’t in our favor. I left FAIRWINDS in Ålesund und they made the crossing to the U.K. from about 30nsm further south and never made it to Bergen in the end. Understandable, you don’t mess with the west cap if it’s not necessary.  

But the idea was in my head. Winter is coming and soon the mountains are covered in snow. This will look spectacular as well but the differences in the scenery are best to see without the snow cover. 

Being in Bergen it’s so clear how I’ll get to Oslo: I’m taking the scenic route and will be staying a night in a hut in the mountains. 


The scenic route is scenic, indeed. The Bergenbahnen is one of Norway oldest train tracks, connecting Bergen and Oslo on 516km of rails. Some parts were first planed and build in the 1890th. 

It’s not easy to take decent pictures, the scenery is rushing and there are uncountable tunnels on the way. 


But it’s worth the effort. The scenery changes after every tunnel a little bit and compared to the lower parts closer to Bergen the Fjell reminds me more on the parts I’ve seen up in the Arctic circle: Snow and ice shaped. 


I am deeply impressed and feel a deep urge inside me to explore this. I want to go out there on a hike… I will spend one night and will have the opportunity for a little walk in daylight in the morning. We are coming through Finse and I can understand why it was recommended as a great overnight stay. I meet a lady on the train who has a cabin in Finse, she wouldn’t want to have it anywhere else. 


I choose Geilo as my domicile for tonight. The reason is simple, I got a free spot in a hut. And as I was told several times that camping in the mountains in autumn isn’t the same than camping in a fjord in summer I gave in and booked a bed. Seeing the snow on the mountains I’m convinced, that they were right. I was planing this trip while sitting in shorts in the sun… but I brought my Biwak and there will be a time to use it. But not tonight. 

I met two funny guys on the train, coming back from a looong hiking tour. Smelly and tiered, just as it should be after great adventures! 

They are equipped properly and will sleep with there tent down by the river. We share a beer and some stories. 


My cabin is some 20-30min walk up the hill, “kind of following the rail track but more left” I was told… our ways splitt and everyone goes to their night base. 


I find the cabin and also see that they offer a lot more than a bed. Canyoning, Kajak, snow kiting… 


And: a warm bath if you like, wood is already chopped. 


I take the shower and have a big dorm just to myself. It’s 5 degrees inside. Good that there is a heater. 


Sleeping outside wouldn’t have killed me but it’s way more comfi inside and the price is less than a pizza. 

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